Adelaide to Darwin
March 31, 2020Straight up the guts of Australia; Long straight roads, loads of kangaroos and emus, and some magical national parks. This is a 2WD friendly itinerary.. (damn I wish I bought a 4WD).
Starting in Adelaide?!? This understated and overlooked city happens to be one of my favourites so be sure to pair this itinerary up with another I have posted; “Wine wouldn’t you hightail to Adelaide!? Then hit the road and head North East for some desert feels!
FLINDERS RANGES VIA CLARE VALLEY
Depart Adelaide via the Clare Valley for two fantastic reasons; 1) HELLO WINE… jump on the old resiling trail (but responsibly whilst driving) making sure you make a stop at O’leary Walker & Grosset. 2) its actually on route towards the Flinders Rangers, so if you have indulged in a few two many glasses then stay over night and head off to the national park in the morning. Camp up at Wilpena Pound Resort where a bunch of insanely gorgeous nature parks head off from, all varying in skill and time. We chose to do the Mount Olsens Bagge Hike and were rewarded with panoramic views over the Wilpena Gorge and crater. Unfortuanlty due to the roads, even though they say it’s 2WD friendly we struggled on the corrugated road between Parachilna and Blinman so I would recommend just coming back the way you drove in. It may seem like a massive side trip but it’s well worth the visit.
As the name suggest’s it is simply a road house and I am still uncertain who even Spud is.. but this place is a great overnighter to break up the trip on the highway. It is just a massive dirt lot and a super inviting road house with random nicknacks, beers and an excellent snitty burger with the lot for $12. Spud’s also delivers a wine list that would put a bunch a bondi to shame, and prices are super reasonable!
COOBER PEDY
These crazy mound or rather mines had me intrigued. Coober Pedy is famous for its Opals and underground houses, again on the highway and a good place to spend the night or stretch the legs on a long drive. Where Mad Max meets Welcome to Woop Woop this place needs to be seen to be believed. You don’t need much time here.. a few museums, a gallery and maybe a tour should give you a taste but if you’re watching your pretty pennies and not in the market for an opal then keep rollin’ on by with the windows open to get some good desert meets trash shots.
BORDER
Just shy of the border into the NT there is a well kept free camp ground with toilets.
If you are limited to 2WD roads as we were, then I recommend heading here first before Uluru. Try to stock up on petrol as these two destinations know how to cash in on their exclusive supply. The rim walk at kings canyon into the garden of Eden is simply breathtaking. It recommends around 5 hours but we comfortably did it in 2 with lots of chill time and photographs on the way. Heading back onto Lasseter highway there are two free camps before getting to the resort-like town of Yulara.
Wow. nothing can quite prepare you for that great, majestic red rock in the centre of Australia… or can it? Once you have turned off the highway towards Uluru you may get slightly premature excitement when you spot something protruding to your left. Its not what you think it is and apparently a lot of people actually make that mistake when first seeing Mount Conner. But nope, not I who have longed after Uluru since I was a little tacker, and I was not disappointed. The national park charges a very fair $26 pp for a 3 day pass which will also get you to The Olgas. Spend the first day gasping and gushing over the beauty up close and personal by following the track the entire way around it. Take your time as you will see the colour change from every different angle, I think it is recommended a few hours… however this majestic frolic took us around 6 hours and a thousand photos later. Please be sure to read and obey the signs where photos in certain areas are asked not to be taken. Try to catch sunrise and sunset with a view of her in all her glory as the light changes instantaneously from a ripe orange to a brick red to a damp brown. There are a few free camp sites about 30km back on the road but if you can afford it I would recommend the camp ground. Whilst here there is a bunch of amazing activities to be taken advantage of like walks, bush tucker classes and art classes. We opted for perhaps one of the most expensive experiences but something I had dreamt of doing for 5 years. Unfortunately the Sounds of Silence dinner in my experience was the worst way I have ever spent $500. It should have been called off due to wet weather but it went ahead, therefore we were served up to a buffet of wet, overcooked meat, without even a glimpse of Uluru. If you are fortunate enough to be there while the field of light exhibition is on then I would highly recommend it!!! It is truely a masterpiece and adds to the epic dreamland.
KATA TJUTU
The park opens an hour before sunrise which leaves you plenty of time to drive via an incredible sunset viewing area. Kick off your morning stroll walking into an eerie and wind swept Walpa gorge. The walk is short but impressive. The rocks on either side of the gorge resemble something from out of space and the low lying fog kept the light to a minimum. Try to beat the crowds and be the first in here as its all the more special to witness it alone. A short drive away you will arrive at another car park for Valley of the winds walk. This round loop walk takes you in by the river and over the Olgas in under 3 hours and is one of my favourite short walks we did.
Spend sunset or sunrise admiring these impressive rock formations. The sun hits and illuminates an electric red, making striking silhouettes and pretty shades of the outback. The Devil’s Marbles Hotel is pretty sweet pub just back from here sporting friendly service, cold beers and good pub grub.
I feel like if you are not Australian this may epitomise what you have dreamt up of an Aussie outback pub. For me however, its a bunch of english tourist working behind the bar, an impressive but unhygienic collection of backpackers dirty knickers and no happy hour. You won’t miss anything by missing it, but if you have time it is interesting.
KATHERINE AND SURROUNDINGS
First stop the info centre. Really you say?? Yes, these people have info on everything you need around Katherine and for your trip beyond. Leaving with a stack of reading material, head for Mataranka springs first up. This gorgeous green pool of water is slightly shaded and the perfect dip to wash away the 40 degree heat! Next up a more wild Bitter Springs. An emerald green lily pad paradise to splash around in! An hour up the road towards Darwin and your hot and bothered again so be sure check out Edith Falls. Its a short 1km walk to the upper pools which is fed by a gushing waterfall. The rocks are hot and the water is refreshing, it was only 2 small fresh water crocs that had me moving on quicker than expected. For another article of all three in detail click on ’A TOP END WILD SWIMMING ADVENTURE // NT’.
Camp up at Florence falls for only $6pp to allow you a head start in the morning! Get down to Florence Falls as early as you can to splash under two gorgeous waterfalls. The plunge pool is deep and clear and the perfect way to wake up! Next stop is the Buley Rockholes which is a bunch of cascading rock pools. These were our favourite of Litchfield and well worth sticking around until you have your own private plunge to bliss out in. Next on the hit list is the most popular Wangi falls.. The extremely large murky water and tourist by the dozen didn’t do it for me so after a quick splash we set off for Cascades. A short bush walk which we did easily in thongs will spit you out at a gorgeous tranquil green pool, and then further up stream there is about a 3m waterfall for an afternoon shower.
DARWIN
Between idyllic Indian Ocean sunsets, delicious dinners and lots of wine, what’s not to love about the newly trendy Darwin?! This laid back little city has a lot to offer and we luckily were chauffered around to the sights by a few of our gorgeous friends. Be sure to check out the manic Mindil Markets on either a Thursday eve or a Sunday. The markets boast arts, crafts and delicious food! The Laksa stand is insanely popular, & for good reason. BYO some beers, a picnic rug and sit on the beach to enjoy a colourful sunset.
Just down the road at Nightcliff beach - on Wednesdays, Fridays & Saturdays - you will find the most amazing outdoor Italian dining experience: “Cucina Sotto Le Stelle,’ which translates to ‘Restaurant under the stars.’ A massive open wood fired pizza oven serves up rustic thin pizzas with simple but effective toppings. Two long communal tables draped with checkered table cloths under pretty lights completes the dining area. Joyous conversation alongside the chef’s loud calling out of orders fills the night sky, with dogs & children running around in unison. The BYO theme continues here; bring a picnic blanket to spread out on, & a bottle of Italian red. Bellissimo!
Whilst we are on the topic of wine, you can’t go past Stone House in the heart of Darwin city for a late afternoon tipple. Set in an old stone building, but brilliantly painted & decorated to make you feel like you are somewhere in the Mediterranean, Stone House offers an incredible wine list with some unique by the glass options, & some decent craft beers on tap. There’s a sun soaked beer garden outside, or cool air conditioned tables within, & the place pumps on into the night on weekends.
Just around the corner you will find PM, a trendy share plate restaurant with a drinks list that holds it own. Order several items off the menu & a cocktail to start, or go straight to vino. Be sure to book as it fills out quickly!
If you’ve woken up the next morning with in a bit of a haze, get yourself in a air conditioned car & head down to Berry Springs in Darwin’s south. The small but refreshing waterfall down the left trail & the large, open main pool on the right get extremely popular so get in early. Bring an inflatable to laze on, & a snorkel to check out the tropical fish swimming about. You can also picnic on the grassy surroundings, with enough room to kick a ball around. Keep an eye out for carpet pythons!
