Caviar to quad biking at Lake Biakal

Getting only about 4 hours sleep on our train journey, we woke to a russian woman shaking our feet to get ready for our arrival into Irkusk. Stepping of the train we were greeted by Costa, our Russian honcho who definitely looks the part; strong jaw line, thick accent and muscles…did I mention no dress sense. He led us across the river to feed our faces with pancakes and pastries before checking out a few sites in Irkutsk…all of two churches, we covered our heads to walk awkwardly into services and straight back out. 

After a sneaky cake purchase for Panda’s 28th birthday, we piled back onto the bus for the one hour journey north towards the beautiful Lake Biakal. Before too long the bus was at a halt due to an urgent toilet stop. Chloe and I bounded through the tick infested forest to escape the eyes of the bus! 

Back on the road, green trees and colourful houses climbed the hills. The shutters on the wooden huts much like those on a barn yard gave it an almost country and western feel. The roofs; triangular and weather proof juxtaposed the previous Mongolian type housing. It finally felt like we had entered real Russia. So far I have been pleasantly surprised by how well we have been received, previously believing the cliche that Russians don’t smile, I have agreeably been proven wrong.

We arrived at our accommodation around mid day to find a lovely wooden shack that looked more like a holiday lake house! Craines, Eric and I scored a gorgeous little room inclusive of an ensuite and a little balcony with a breathtaking view of the dancing ice on the lake! 

Walking along Lake Biakal snapping away for the perfect photos, nothing quite captures the infectious beauty of it. The crisp air blows a shattering chill whist the sun shines a warming touch, in the distance the ice sheets clang and dance around the faint snow capped mountains on the other side! As I said… Nothing quite captures it; it’s one of those things you need to see yourself to appreciate! 

After a lovely lunchin at the local bakery inclusive of a chicken pie and a dense chocolate ball, we then caught a chair lift to the top of one of the hills that shadowed the small holiday village! Breathtaking views and a beer later we hurried home to start the celebrations for Pandas birthday bash! 

Whilst the boys decided on a hot pre drinks sauna, us girls started with some local vodka, caviar and strange but tasty fish from the lake. The eve kicked off around half 9, all 12 of us abiding by the “hat” theme for the party; we ate a delicious family meal of chicken and potatoes and devoured all sorts of alcohol! A train decorated cake was cut, cards were delt and dancing of the disorderly was done! Finishing up in the early hours of this morning it was quite the party!

Breakfast was served at half 10 this morning, feeling a little flimsy; Eric, Jane and myself decided on a sauna to sweat out last nights poison! Feeling a little more alive we then piled 6 of us into a tiny blue car driven by a strange Russian man… Not as suspect as it sounds we were taken to a house to change into army like costumes in order to go quad bike riding in the Siberian forest! An adventurous hour later, almost hitting a tree twice, tumbling sideways and splashing through puddles we felt liberated with our four wheeler efforts, but wishing our 14 yr old leader would have riden a little faster! 

The bakery from the day before called us back for lunch, more chicken pie, fresh crumbed fish, banana wrapped in soft pastry and drizzled chocolate…basically glorified fat! A solid afternoon nap and six panadols later we were feeling a little better after the previous night’s antics. The group made its way to the markets for dinner of shish kebabs and a few quiet beers. Craines and I found our favourite friend; essa- a pineapple grapefruit flavoured beer! Delicious! We had retired back to our common area kitchen, listening to speak easy Russian and hoping for a cheesy film…with English subtitles!

Our last day in scenic Biakal came to a dramatic end….

After a peaceful lazy day; a morning run, lazy long lunch and an afternoon boat cruise around the cliffs on icy waters we made our way down stairs to the transfer bus. We were to be preparing for a three night and four day train journey dissecting Russia through three time zones, and insane landscapes. To prepare we made a stop at a supermarket in Irkust stocking up on packet noodles, coffee, tea, dried fruits, and of course chocolate. During our shop we were unsure of the timeframe given to us by Costa ( the Russian cliche), he assured us we had plenty of time to make the train….
It wasn’t until we saw the clock at 10:20pm with a departure time of 10:50pm that we asked costa how much further the drive was. He responded with ” half an hour, you will need to run”…. Ok, greaaat. The bus stopped to a halt outside the station and we worked as a team to sprint through the underground network of tunnels to find our platform. Chloe falling behind spilling her essential groceries as her ’ I love Mongolia’ bag did not return the feeling, breaking through the at the straps….packet noodles and essa everywhere.

We made it! With precisely three minute to spare, panting and exhausted the attending didn’t bother checking our passports- I think out of pity. Cans were cracked as the train started to roll.